가고싶은 조지아 우쉬굴리(Ushguli), 메스티아(Mestia)

우쉬굴리는 해발 2,410 metres에 위치하는 곳으로 조지아에서 가장 높은 마을이다

두개의 강이 만나는 곳에 4개의 마을이 형성되어 있다

수량이 많고 깊어 댐도 있다

Ushguli is located in the municipality of Mestia, at the bottom of mountain Shkhara,

near the confluence of rivers Inguri and Shavtsqala-Kvishara.

The community is comprised of 4 villages (Zhibiani, Chvibiani, Murqmeli and Chazhashi)

and their height ranges from 2060 meters to 2200 meters above sea level.

This makes Ushguli the highest settlement in Europe.

The center of the community, Chazhashi, has been declared a museum and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

메스티아에서 46Km 떨어진 곳이며 오지 중의 오지마을이지만 우쉬굴리는 스바네티지역에 속한다.

게다가 마을 뒤에는 카프카스 산맥에서 세번째로 높은 고봉이며

조기아에서는 가장 높은 산인 Shkara mountain(5201m)이 넓은 가슴으로 마을을 굽어 본다

우쉬굴리

우쉬굴리

메스티아

메스티아

Mestia is the central town of Upper (Zemo) Svaneti, located 456 km away from Tbilisi.

 At 1,500 meters above sea level, the city is the starting point for many trips throughout the region.

From the center of Mestia, you can hike up to glaciers at the bottom of Ushba,

ride a horse to alpine meadows, learn the Svan culture, and ski if you visit it during the winter months.

메스티아

메스티아는 스바네티(Svaneti) 지방 여행을 가능케 하는 지역이다.

스바네티는 조지아에서 가장 오래되고 역사적인 지방으로서,

유려한 산악 풍경을 배경으로 중세 시대의 마을과 탑형(塔形) 주택들이 들어선 곳으로 유명하다.

스바네티 지방은 1996년 유네스코 세계문화유산으로 등재되었다.

인구리(Inguri) 강을 중심으로 상류 내륙은 어퍼 스바네티(Upper Svaneti), 하류 내륙은 로어 스바네티(Lower Svaneti)로 구분된다.

해발 1500m에 위치한 메스티아는 어퍼 스바네티의 메인 타운으로, 여행자를 반기는 호텔과 상점, 레스토랑, 카페, 트레킹 코스 등이

인포메이션센터를 중심으로 그 일대에 하나 둘 위치해 있다.

한데 그 숫자는 손에 꼽을 정도로 상당히 적다. 이곳에서 호텔은 우리가 일반적으로 생각하는 모습이나 성격과는 사뭇 다르다.

스바네티 지방 특유의 중세 건축 양식을 고스란히 보존하고 있는 일반 가정집에서 먹고 자는 홈스테이 형태에 가깝다.

숙소추천;나지 게스트하우스

 

Four Svaneti Villages

​Nakipari     So close to the main road (Mestia-Ushguli) and somehow is not given enough attention!   ia and Northern Caucasus. It shows  that pre christian beliefs haven't disappeared altogether.  Descending from the Ugviri Pass (that connects Mulkhura and Inguri valleys) and looking south you will notice a few villages.   In the background is snow covered Lasil (3495m). These villages belong to Ipari (not IpRari which is a different village) community and unless you go to Ushguli for a day trip it make sense to explore them. Also, you can do it if you walk from Hatsvali via Tsvirmi. In Bogreshi  (on the main road after descent from Ugviri) cross the bridge and walk for 10 minutes to Nakipari.   Entering Nakipari you will notice (on your left) a group of birch trees and simple stone structure. This is a church of St.George (Dzhgrag) in which you will find some precious icons and unique frescoes painted in the year 1130. Eastern façade of the church has  animal relief similar to the ancient art of south Russ Inscription of a date and artist's name (Tevdore) is not visible anymore. But in 1938 professor Amiranashvili could still detect it. Frescoes give an impression of grandeur despite small size (25 sq.m.) of the church and they are relatively well preserved. Tevdore was a local artist who also decorated walls of churches in Iprari, Tsvirmi and Lagurka. Faces with typical svan features look familiar, passing through villages you might see them...  Nowhere in Georgia you will find anything similar to this style of powerful  yet naive character. ​Martyrdom of St.George on the western wall Adishi  It is always surprising how many people are completely ignorant about cultural treasures found in many villages of Svaneti. Everybody visit Mtsheta and Gelati to admire their art treasures. Svaneti is considered for hiking only and hardly anyone know that the most ancient examples of Georgian fresco art  can be found here. So let's talk about Adishi. This village has many abandoned houses and it's atmosphere is rather melancholy. After snow year of 1987-1988 (even in summer valleys were packed with snow) many people left for Tbilisi. Adishi is a "dead end" village so there are no passes here that lead to the North Caucasus. And it is actually higher than Ushguli... There are three churches in Adishi and the smallest one is dedicated to Dzhgrag (St. George). ​It is tiny, has frescoes on the exterior walls and flamboyant, colorful frescoes  inside showing scenes from the life of St. George.   The style is naive but in this rather grim village it makes for good.  Frescoes are not signed  but belong probably to 14th century.​  Like other churches in Svaneti it is in poor state of preservation. ​Another church is Matshvari (Savior) is larger and is known for so called Adishi Gospel that was found here covered with thick layer of dust.  Imagine now, that this first illustrated Gospel in georgian language was kept here for centuries (and it was made in 897, era of Carolingian dynasty in Europe) just below glaciers of Tetnuldi  in the most distant corner of Georgia! ​Today this unique book can be seen in the Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography (Mestia). ​Zegani Another small but beautiful village that hardly anyone visits. Zegani belongs to Ipari community  (just as neighboring  Nakipari) a nd it takes only 20-30 minutes walk to get there from the Mestia-Ushguli road. The village is on the slightly inclined plateau above the confluence of Inguri and Lasil. Dark waters of Lasil run from the Svaneti Range that is composed of  brittle black shale, hence the color. There are only 13 families living today in Zegani. Many young people leave for Tbilisi and it is inevitable. Village life is hard and monotonous. There is only one guesthouse (without any sign, just ask around) in Zegani and it belongs to Djaba Khvistani.  View to the south. Old tower of Zegani, Svaneti Range and Lasil Valley Village lichme labours. Lichme means hay in svanuri  Latali   Traveling from Zugdidi to Mestia you pass through Latali, the "border community" of Free Svaneti. Further down, all the villages were ruled by House of Dadeshkeliani and as a result most towers there were destroyed. Above Latali Svaneti was independent. There are only 9 km from Latali to Mestia but they are worlds apart. Latali is not yet touched by tourism and retains it's rugged character. Svaneti Range with snow dome of Ladura (3758m) and wide shoulders of Layla (4008m) rises high above the village. There are number of interesting, ancient churches in the villages of Latali . Matskhvari (Savior) church stands on the hill over the main road and by far the most impressive. Frescoes painted by Mikael from Maglaki in 1142 are in relatevely good condition. Prevalent color scheme is blue-grey with brown-red and this restrained palette is incredibly powerful.  Manner is rather stiff and bear a strong resemblance to capadocian style. ​Jonah Church in Yenashi village (Latali) On Saturdays, Sundays and holidays the churches are open in the morning and late afternoon. If you visit  on other days it is complicated. Ask locals and you might be lucky!